Who can resist Zac Posen’s subtle charm? The designer once again succeeded in enchanting us by presenting a decidedly 40’s-inspired spring 2013 collection. Ethereal flower-printed chiffon dresses, with fluffy skirts, just below the knee, marked hips, short sleeves and sweetheart busts, owned a Wartime cinema air, while the elegantly sensual mermaid ball gowns, would have undoubtedly stunned Marlene Dietrich herself. However, Posen’s references to past fashions are light allusions, meant to serve his own sense of refined femininity.
Prabal Gurung, who had accustomed us to flamboyant prints, limited his palette this season for a toned down collection, essentially tinted in white, red and black, with occasional hues of silver creams, greyish blues and a touch of trendy ceramic. Despite this new minimalism, Gurung’s preppy and perfectly structured outfits seem to be giving ‘mix and match’ a lesson, as having an impeccable allure is at the top of his fans’ list.
When a designer of talent like Jason Wu collaborates with a famous Italian lingerie house like La Perla, the result can’t be anything else but fabulous. Wu experimented with black leather cut-outs and lace without falling into the usual trap of tacky retro-fetishism. Although there were touches of humour kink and punk, found on spiky stilettos, peep toe boots and corseted bustiers, collars were smart and, transparent bits, more than reasonable. An amazing properly-sexy collection indeed!
Creatures of the Wind designers Chris Peters and Shane Gabier followed the colourful print trend commonly found in London collections. That said, although the duo’s lines were quite ample and oversized, the lollipop tints and strong contrasting details gave their outfits an adolescent spirit.
Max Azria for Hervé Léger presented, like every season, various print variations of the brand’s legendary bandage dress. This time, outfits were ethnic or more precisely, Native American-inspired, with geometrical motifs, in earthly beige, terracotta and black or midnight blue tones. Embroidery, metal appliqué and leather detailing paid tribute to the South’s traditional crafts.
Upcoming and much praised designer Joseph Altuzarra showed a collection filled with trompe-l’oeil effects: ‘fake jackets’ but ‘real’ capes with decorative sleeves, strict skirts which contrasted oversized vests, dresses made of mixed and matched fabrics, prints and colours. Most noteworthy were the beautifully layered and seemingly draped dressy single piece outfits that winked at hippy chic.
The romantic aspect of nature inspired Thakoon Panichgul for his new collection, which was all about birds and flowers. Among his most remarkable creations were the very poetic balloon-shaped birdcage-printed dresses.
Indeed, his refreshing florals and light fabrics made us wish to skip winter and jump right back into spring.
Louise Kissa
lkissa@neurope.eu
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